Montrésor is simply dazzling, what you see when you enter and what you get on the plate.
This is why, only a few weeks after opening, the wait to get in can take 1 1/2 hours on a Saturday night.
In contrast to today's spare, minimalist, noisy restaurants, Montrésor is all about ornate furnishings, flowery fabrics and lush comfort that hasn't been fashionable in decades. Maybe not since the 1890s, the era of the French bordello mirror (above) that stands against one wall.
Ann Booth Luly, the designer, calls the style "fairytale French." Luly, who did much of the work by hand, is partners in the restaurant with Lisa Long, actress and veteran restaurant owner.
The menu is overseen by executive chef Paul Shoemaker (above), who puts a lot on a plate.
Seared foie gras, for example, comes with cocoa ginger, quince and orange sauces, powdered foie gras and crunchy bits of orange meringue (above).
Asparagus (above) has a black truffle ragout underneath, a Port reduction, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese foam, morel mushrooms, miner's lettuce, and a sprinkle of black truffle and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It's not ordinary asparagus either but fat stalks from Zuckerman Family Farms of Stockton.
Crab cakes (above) come with the expected remoulade sauce but also with Meyer lemon gastrique, pepperberry and lemon sauces and a frisee salad stacked high on top.
Representing French tradition are classic onion soup and the charming gougères (above) that come with bread.
The menu changes often, reflecting seasonal availability and inspiration. A recent addition was turbot with ramps, sweet garlic and black trumpet mushrooms (above).
Black bass (above) was dolled up with porcini mushroom ragu, cherry tomatoes and heirloom Bloomsdale spinach.
Short ribs, which are served only medium rare, the menu says, were American Wagyu, with potato fondant and tomato confit (above).
Desserts change regularly. The other night there were just three:
A soft, luscious creme brûlée with pistachio biscotti (above).
Milk and honey panna cotta (above) that contained berries and bits of honey comb.
And profiteroles (above) piled high with vanilla ice cream, chocolate, toffee almond brittle and Chantilly cream.
There's an ample wine list, and if you order by the glass, you get a refill in a carafe.
Montrésor means "my treasure," and it's a treasure for Valley residents and a destination restaurant for others. Located on Ventura Blvd. in Studio City, it's open currently for dinner and Sunday brunch but not yet for lunch.
Montrésor, 11266 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604. Tel: (818) 760-7081. For more about the restaurant, its hours, menus and events, click here.
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