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The 5 Top Tastes of September 2018

Two fish dishes, two desserts and one of the most popular of all south Indian dishes, the dosa--that's this month's wrap-up of top tastes. 

1. Wuxi smoked fish noodle soup at Long Xing Ji in San Gabriel. The fish isn't in the soup. Fried and crisp, it's served on the side in a little bowl with sweetened soy sauce at the bottom, not surprising because Wuxi food is known for sweetness. The main bowl holds broth, fine noodles, baby bok choy, half a tea egg and carrot strands. It's a nice combo for a modest under $10 lunch.

Long Xing Ji, 140 W. Valley Blvd., #211, San Gabriel, CA 91776 (upstairs in San Gabriel Square). (626) 307-1188. 

2. Fish curry at Mayura Indian Restaurant. Mayura serves the food of Kerala in south India, and this is a Kerala style fish curry, made with coconut milk and scented with curry leaves and black mustard seeds. The unique seasoning is Garcinia cambogia, a sour fruit also known as brindleberry and Malabar tamarind. You can see it between the curry leaves on top of the fish in the photo. 

Mayura Indian Restaurant, 10406 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90232. (310) 559-9644.

3. When I want Indian comfort food, I go to Annapurna Cuisine and order a paper dosa. Made from a fermented rice and lentil batter, it's thin, crisp and golden--not papery, but that describes the thickness or, rather, thinness. There's no filling--other dosas on the menu can provide that. The accompaniments are the soupy dal and vegetable mixture called sambar and tomato and coconut chutneys.

Annapurna Cuisine, 10200 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90232. (310) 204-5500.

4. Peach halavah at Govinda's Buffet. Some form of halavah is on the buffet every day at Govinda's Buffet, which is part of the temple complex of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness in Los Angeles. This isn't Middle Eastern halvah but a semolina pudding from India. It's simple and delicious. 

Govinda's Buffet, 3764 Watseka Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90034.  (310) 836-2676.

5. Almond Meringue Surprise at Olsen's Danish Village Bakery in Solvang. The surprise could be jam, but this one hides almond custard inside.  The meringue is spread over the top and sprinkled with almonds. Olsen's has had this pastry for many years. It's so popular that I got the last one in the counter the day I was there.

Olsen's Danish Village Bakery, 1529 Mission Dr, Solvang, CA 93463. (805) 688-6314. 

 

A Spicy Chile in Cookies? Why Not?

These chocolate chip cookies have lots of pizzazz, meaning they hit you with hot chile, just enough to be interesting but not painful.

A single Hatch chile is enough to supply the heat in this recipe. Hatch chiles are raised so they will be mild, medium, hot or extra hot. I used a "medium" chile for the cookies, and that was just right. If you like really wild flavor, try hot or extra hot. But hurry, the Hatch season ends soon. 

You'll find delicious ways to use what you buy in Melissa's "Hatch Chile Cookbook" by Sharon Hernandez and Chef Ida Rodriguez. That's where I got the cookie recipe. The only change I made was to doll it up by adding instant coffee powder, chopped walnuts and sweetened dried tart cherries. Yum!

HATCH CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
Based on a recipe in Melissa's "Hatch Chile Cookbook" 

4 ounces (1 stick) butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoons instant coffee powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1/3 cup walnuts, chopped
1/4 cup sweetened dried tart cherries
1 Hatch chile, roasted, peeled, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cream the butter, granulated and brown sugars together until smooth. Beat in the egg, then stir in the vanilla. 

Stir in the flour, coffee powder, baking soda and salt, then mix in the chocolate chips, walnuts, cherries and the chile. 

Drop the dough by large spoonfuls onto ungreased baking sheets, forming 24 cookies 2 inches apart. You will need 2 baking sheets or else bake the cookies in 2 batches.

Bake the cookies 10 minutes, until they begin to brown. Remove from the oven and let stand on the baking sheet 5 minutes, then lift onto wire racks to cool completely.

Makes 24 large cookies. 

A Farm Dinner and the Film "Esfuerzo"

This taco is amazing--and that's in a day when tacos are everywhere in any form you can think of.

This one appeared at a dinner at Buttonwood Winery & Vineyard in Solvang. The tortillas were made with locally grown green Oaxacan corn dried and processed into masa.

The masa was formed into balls and hand-pressed into tortillas that were grilled just before the dinner.

The lamb, raised at Buttonwood, was braised for two hours, then seared, placed on the tortillas and topped with a poblano-tomatillo salsa, a radish slice and cotija cheese.

The tacos were part of a farm-to-table dinner that showed off not only Buttonwood farm products but a documentary film about the role of migrant Mexican vineyard workers.   

Stars of the film attending included Armando Zepeda, Buttonwood's vineyard manager (above), who planted the first vines there in 1983.

His grandson Fidencio Flores (above) farms the grapes with which he makes Esfuerzo wines, which were served at the dinner. Buttonwood's cellar master Lupe Flores, Fidencio's father, was present too, as well as Alana Maiello, who conceived and produced the documentary. 

The showing took place on the darkened farm, with a full moon rising beyond the screen. Now appearing at film festivals, it's called "Esfuerzo" (effort) like the wines.

The three poured at the dinner were the 2017 Pinot Gris and Rosé of Pinot Noir and the 2015 Grenache.  Here Fidencio Flores pours the Pinot Gris. 

Fidencio collaborated on the dinner with chef Conrad Gonzales (above), who has a restaurant, Valle Eatery and Bar, in Lompoc and a taco shop in Los Alamos. The two plan to develop purple corn tortillas as well as the Oaxacan green corn tortillas and market them to chefs.  

Armando Zepeda contributed grilled tri-tip strips and his signature BBQ chicken, seasoned with spices from a nearby market.

Farm produce appeared in every course and decorated the tables on the tasting room veranda. 

Appetizers included caprese skewers with farm-raised cherry tomatoes and basil. 

Really fresh corn got nothing more than a coating of crema.

These jalapeños were stuffed with goat cheese and topped with a ribbon of bacon.

Dinner started with a summer salad combining watermelon, tomatoes, cucumber, mint and cheese.

Then came the tacos, followed by chicken, steak and the Grenache. 

Farm-raised rainbow potatoes and a black bean salad accompanied the meats. 

The dessert combined the best of the vineyard and the farm--rosé gelato and sweet tamales flavored with fresh peaches. Buttonwood is famous for its peaches, which are sold in season at the farm and at farmers markets. 

The dinner only increased interest in the film and appreciation for the Flores family and others who worked so hard to bring such good food and wine to the table. 

Buttonwood Winery & Vineyard is just outside the town of Solvang, at 1500 Alamo Pintado Road. (805) 688-3032. Esfuerzo wines are produced by the Flores Family Vineyards, which has a tasting room at 140 Industrial Way, Buellton, CA 93427. (805) 245-1578. Hours are ll a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.