I can get a Chilean Cabernet for $3.99 at my corner market. So why should I pay $50 for another Cabernet from Chile?
Because it's stunning. I'm talking about the 2010 Neyen Espiritu de Apalta--Apalta is an area within the Colchagua Valley, a major wine region in Chile. The wine (at right) is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) and Carmenere (45%).
"This Cabernet tends to be very restrained because it is from old vines," said Rodrigo Soto, chief winemaker for Huneeus Vintners, who presided over a Chilean wine lunch at A.O.C. In this case, old vines means up to 120 years old.
"Carmenere tends to be a little more fleshy and fills out the gaps in the Cabernet," he continued. It adds "a touch of spice character."
Lunch guests who had attended a Bordeaux wine presentation previously liked the rich and fruity Chilean Cabernet blend better than what they tasted there. "Tasting this wine blind, I would never guess it is Chilean," Soto said.
When asked the price, he said $50, but you can find it for less online.
Soto (above) was in Los Angeles to present wines from the Huneeus Chilean portfolio, founded by vintner Agustin Huneeus.The focus was on the company's Ritual wines, from vineyards in Chile's Casablanca Valley. This is "unique country for growing grapes," Soto said. It is a cool region, between the coast and the Andes mountains.
"Ritual was created to show the best we could do out of that area," Soto said, noting that the wines "have a little bit of granite character" from the decomposed granite soils.
The three Ritual wines poured were a Sauvignon Blanc (above), Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all from 2015. The Sauvignon Blanc, which really shone, is $17.99. The others are $19.99. Pinot is a "challenging variety," said Soto, a Pinot enthusiast whose aim is to make one that is "bright, fresh and has structure."
Born in Chile, Soto has worked in California at Fetzer and was head winemaker at Benziger Winery in Sonoma until returning to Chile in 2012. In winemaking, "California is 25 years ahead of Chile," he said.
He is a proponent of organically farmed vineyards. "All of the properties are certified," he said, speaking of the Huneeus holdings in Chile. And he is anticipating the day when they will be biodynamic as well.
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