This is sad news, really sad, for anyone who loves good food--and a bargain.
Dominick's will close December 20. Open for almost 70 years, this landmark restaurant has provided one of the town's nicest food bargains--three-course Sunday suppers for $15. And $15 bottles of wine to go with them (yes, bottles, not glasses).
The curve of Beverly Boulevard near the Beverly Center where Dominick's is located already seems dark and ghostly, with Jerry's Famous Deli next door shuttered for a couple of years.
We hear that a new restaurant will take over the space, and Dominick's will reopen in Ojai. This is small consolation for a teary staff, and for the loss of cozy dinners beside the fireplace in the patio.
Informality is the word. Tables are covered with brown paper (above) but you do get cloth napkins. Wine is poured into small tumblers rather than stemmed glasses.
The food is wonderful, not modest, cost-conscious fare, and it's not trimmed to the minimum. Suppers include hot bread in a paper bag and a crock of butter along with three substantial dishes. No wonder the restaurant is so crowded Sunday evenings that you don't dare come in without a reservation.
Thanksgiving weekend, the supper recapped the holiday. The basics were there--mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry and turkey--but presented cleverly, so that you were not eating one more traditional turkey dinner.
The mashed potatoes came first, formed into croquettes with sausage (above). These were so seamlessly blended that neither ingredient stood out.
The main dish was turkey and roasted sweet potato fricassee with dried cranberries and pine nuts (above). A sort of stew, it contained lots of dark meat and small bits of potato, something to try at home when you want a dish that doesn't shout "leftovers."
Supper ended with pumpkin cheesecake with a ginger graham crust, set on whipped cream--no scrimping there.
Dominick's house wine is Dago Red (or white), which, says the back label, is made each year from grapes selected by the owners. The red was bright and young, fresh and uncomplicated, a blend produced for the restaurant by Palmina in Lompoc.
A couple of Sundays remain before the final Sunday when the restaurant closes. Regulars are sure to be there in droves, so grab any reservation available, no matter the time.
Dominick's, 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, CA 90048. Tel: (310) 652-2338.
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