It's a long drive from Hollywood's Thai Town to Las Vegas, but if you're after really good Thai food, you won't mind the trip.
The place you'll eat is Lemongrass, the first Thai restaurant to open in a Strip hotel, the Aria Resort & Casino. Not everything is perfect, but you can get some real standouts.
One is bua loi, a dessert that is totally unglamorous, it's so white and bland. But dig in, and you'll go into raptures over this soft, warm comfort food.
Tiny, chewy glutinous rice dumplings flavored with pandan, taro and pumpkin float in sweet warm coconut milk along with slices of fresh young coconut meat.
Thai Town bua loi can be good, but it doesn't measure up to this one.
The northeastern minced meat dish larb is excellent too, nice and acidic, with an underlying earthiness from ground roasted rice.
Not on the menu when Lemongrass opened last December, larb had to be added because so many people asked for it.
The executive chef is Krairit Krairavee, from Bangkok.
I heard about him from Chef McDang, who tours Le Cordon Bleu Colleges of Culinary Arts in the United States once a year, teaching the principles of Thai cooking. There's a Cordon Bleu in Las Vegas, and while there this summer, Chef McDang ate at Lemongrass.
Chef Krairavee, he said, gets the Thai flavor profile right, so that even when he puts together something original, it has true Thai taste.
Given the Las Vegas location, however, the restaurant has to consider the tastes of its clientele.
Spring rolls filled with salmon, Cheddar cheese and basil (above)? That's a long way from Bangkok, but such a dish wouldn't scare off a tourist leery of anything too foreign.
Chef Krairavee says, and I think I detected a note of apology, that Vegas diners want their green curry thick and creamy. The Lemongrass green curry is as gorgeous as the rest of the food, but those of us who eat in Thai Town, or Thailand, would like it a little more green and a little less creamy.
No quarrel with the shrimp spring rolls. Large shrimp are neatly wrapped, then tied with a noodle, deep fried, and served with syrupy plum sauce. That, larb and bua loi would make a perfect meal, in my opinion.
Lemongrass has added more Chinese dishes than were on the original menu. On weekends, there's midday dim sum--they'll even pull a cart up to your table.
Although it's Hong Kong style, the dim sum has some Thai touches, such as spicy red curry siu mai and buns filled with minced chicken and Thai basil (right). There's a minced pork red curry bun too and green curry mushroom caps.
The restaurant looks sensational, as you would expect from its glamorous location. Design elements were drawn from the Thai silk weaving industry. Square fixtures modeled on handlooms dangle from the ceiling of the dining room. Spools are stacked high on a wall.
The look is dark, which is cool and soothing, but strategic lighting lets you see what you eat.
If you're alone or want to watch cooks in action, you can sit at a satay bar.
I haven't seen bacon satay (right) in Thailand, but it's at Lemongrass (also lobster satay for high rollers.)
The bacon isn't Oscar Mayer but pork belly grilled on sticks. You have to relish fat to enjoy this, but the cucumber relish and peanut sauce that go with it are first rate.
You could have Thai iced tea with your food, but the proper choice is the signature drink, lemongrass tea--hot tea brewed with fresh lemongrass. It's a nice restorative, if you've whiled away too much time at the gaming tables.
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