July is independence month in South America. Venezuela celebrates July 5, Argentina, July 9 and Peru, July 28.
Along with parades, flag-waving and speeches, the celebrations play up traditional foods. In Argentina, where I’ve taken part in independence festivities, restaurants promote indigenous dishes such as locro (a corn stew), empanadas, humitas (akin to tamales) and carbonada, an extraordinary sweet-sour combination of beef, vegetables and fruits.
My favorite place to eat carbonada is La Querencia in Buenos Aires. One taste, and I was so enchanted that I hunted down a shop selling the rustic brown pottery bowls in which this stew is traditionally served.
Back home, I went to work recreating it, with great success. Beef stew sounds like a hearty winter dish. In Argentina, July is winter (the seasons are opposite from those in the northern hemisphere), but carbonada is so light that it wouldn’t be out of place on a July menu in the United States.
That’s because fruits and vegetables dominate the meat, which is cut into small pieces, not hearty chunks. The sweetness comes from peaches (La Querencia uses canned peaches; I use dried), raisins and a dash of sugar. These may sound like odd components for a stew, but the combination is delicious. Carrots and yams add sweetness too. The other vegetables, all New World natives, are tomatoes, corn and potatoes. Some versions add yellow squash as well.
Carbonada is also popular in Peru, which is not surprising, because Lima was Spain’s seat of power in South America, and the stew is most likely a new world interpretation of a Spanish dish. 
The rustic food of northwestern Argentina, where Inca influence was once strong, dominates La Querencia’s menu. The restaurant goes all out for independence day, decorating lavishly with the blue and white Argentine flag.
Traditional dishes such as empanadas, locro, carbonada, pastel de papas (an Argentine version of shepherd’s pie) and humita en chala, a grated corn mixture wrapped in a fresh corn husk, are on the menu all year, not just during patriotic holidays. I’ve eaten carbonada elsewhere, but in my opinion, that at La Querencia is the best.
La Querencia, corner Junin and Juncal, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Tel: 4821-1888.
CARBONADA
8 dried peach halves
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound beef stew meat, cut in ½-inch cubes
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 cups beef broth
1 cup peach soaking liquid
1 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more as needed
2 bay leaves
2 yams
2 large red potatoes
2 large carrots
1 ½ cups fresh corn kernels
3 tablespoons raisins
2 cups water
12 fresh chives
The day before, place the peach halves in a medium bowl and cover generously with water. Let stand overnight. The next day, drain the peaches, reserving the water, and cut in 1/3-inch wide strips. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven. Add the beef and cook until browned and any liquid cooks away, about 10 minutes. Push to one side. Add the onion and cook until softened, then add the tomatoes and cook 5 minutes, until tender.
Add the beef broth, peach soaking liquid, sugar, 1 ½ teaspoons salt and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, peel the yams and red potatoes. Cut each in quarters lengthwise, then crosswise in ½-inch pieces. Peel the carrots and cut crosswise in ½-inch slices. Place the potatoes and carrots in cold water to cover until ready to use.
After 40 minutes, add to the beef the drained yams, potatoes and carrots, the corn kernels, raisins and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes. Do not allow the liquid to boil away. Taste the broth, and add more salt as needed.
Serve in heated bowls. Top each serving with 2 chive strands.
Makes 6 servings.
Recent Comments