There's a café or restaurant everywhere you turn in Buenos Aires. But some you will never see. These are the restaurantes con puertas cerradas (closed door restaurants) that operate in private homes. They don't advertise, except through word of mouth.
When one such place, the Casa SaltShaker, had a mention in the New York Times, it brought a deluge of customers. A problem, because the Casa operates just two days a week and seats only 12.
Located in an apartment in Barrio Norte, it's the creation of Dan Perlman, an American chef and restaurant wine director who has resettled in Buenos Aires. Because Perlman is a pro, the food is creative, fun and very good. And the wine pairings are expert.
Guests assemble around two tables. The first time I went, there were just five, and the conversation was in Spanish. The next time, there were only Americans, and Perlman squeezed in an extra, making 13.
Dinners are designed around a theme, which could be anything from Oaxacan food to flavors that intrigued Perlman while traveling in Australia. His partner Henry pours the wines and water, serves the dishes and brings espresso or tea afterward.
The wine pairings are optional. Guests can choose to have a single glass, bring their own bottle, select from a small list or drink only water. For me, the opportunity to learn more about Argentinian wines is as important as the food. .
A Nieto Senetiner Extra Brut sparkler from Mendoza accompanied the first course of the Australian dinner, a chilled mango-cucumber soup with tart and spicy accents from lime juice, ginger and habanero chile. .
Next came a smoked lamb and potato empanada with a flaky crust more delicate than traditional Argentine empanada pastry. Perlman paired the empanada with a mint pea sorbet and a 2005 Infinitus Chardonnay Semillon from Patagonia.
Salmon risotto needed a wine that could stand up to bright bold flavors of lemon, sour cream and capers. The choice was a 2005 Jean Rivier Malbec Rosado (rose) from Mendoza with a touch of sweetness and enough acidity to hold its own.
Another Patagonian wine, an NQN 2005 Picada 15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, was able to handle the sweet coffee and port sauce that accompanied roast pork and roasted beets (pictured above, in a photo by Dan).
For dessert, inspired by Australia's lamington cakes, Perlman stuffed a coconut macaroon mixture inside a cupcake, covered it with dulce de leche, the soft caramel that Argentinians adore, and set it in a dish of chocolate syrup. The wine was Finca El Retiro Tardio 2006, a late harvest blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Tocai from Mendoza with lovely floral notes.
Dinners with wine pairings are currently 90 pesos, or about $30. To make reservations, go to www.casasaltshaker.com. The site includes reports on past dinners and menus for upcoming dinners as well as recipes, restaurant recommendations and other tips on how to eat well in Buenos Aires.
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