Sweet and crisp--I can't resist this combination, especially when I find it in pan dulce (Mexican sweet bread). The other day I dropped into Gigante Panaderia y Tortilleria on Western Avenue in Los Angeles.
Checking the racks of bread that line the windows, I came across an extraordinary oval of crisp, flaky pastry, dark brown and glistening with syrupy glaze. Most pan dulce have fanciful Spanish names drawn from their shape, texture, or some other characteristic. But this one does not. "They're crispies," said the baker. I had hoped for something more imaginative, but no matter what the name, I'll be back for more.
Crispies are 60 cents each at Gigante Panaderia y Tortillera, 936 N. Western Ave., Los Angeles. Tel: (323) 464-3139.
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