The name describes all there is to know about it--"charred octopus and green asparagus salad, seaweed gel sheet, chorizo oil, English peas, jellyfish," but not the pleasure of eating it. So many textures and soft fresh flavors alternated with the deep, rich char of the octopus and slight meatiness of the chorizo oil.
The perfect companions were a glass of Chardonnay from Concannon Vineyard and a slice of crusty carrot and fennel bread from a basket heaped with far too many temptations for a bread lover. Again, I made a lucky choice. The bread was light but substantial, with good crust.
And thanks, Spago, for putting delicious olive oil on the table--Massiglia organic extra virgin olive oil from St. Helena in the Napa Valley, made with four olive varieties, hand-picked and then pressed.
Here's another lucky choice--strozzapretti with lamb sausage, spring garlic, wild mushrooms and preserved lemon. This may look like pasta in a heavy cream sauce, but the sauce was light, with tantalizing hints of lemon. The sausage punctuated it with gaminess.
Even the water was special, poured into tumblers with pale aqua bottoms that reflected through the liquid, making you feel you were sipping the sky.
Charred octopus and green asparagus salad is $23 at Spago, 176 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. Tel: (310) 385-0880.