This is why, only a few weeks after opening, the wait to get in can take 1 1/2 hours on a Saturday night.
In contrast to today's spare, minimalist, noisy restaurants, Montrésor is all about ornate furnishings, flowery fabrics and lush comfort that hasn't been fashionable in decades. Maybe not since the 1890s, the era of the French bordello mirror (above) that stands against one wall.
Ann Booth Luly, the designer, calls the style "fairytale French." Luly, who did much of the work by hand, is partners in the restaurant with Lisa Long, actress and veteran restaurant owner.
Asparagus (above) has a black truffle ragout underneath, a Port reduction, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese foam, morel mushrooms, miner's lettuce, and a sprinkle of black truffle and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It's not ordinary asparagus either but fat stalks from Zuckerman Family Farms of Stockton.
Representing French tradition are classic onion soup and the charming gougères (above) that come with bread.
The menu changes often, reflecting seasonal availability and inspiration. A recent addition was turbot with ramps, sweet garlic and black trumpet mushrooms (above).
Desserts change regularly. The other night there were just three:
Montrésor means "my treasure," and it's a treasure for Valley residents and a destination restaurant for others. Located on Ventura Blvd. in Studio City, it's open currently for dinner and Sunday brunch but not yet for lunch.
Montrésor, 11266 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604. Tel: (818) 760-7081. For more about the restaurant, its hours, menus and events, click here.