At the top is amok as served at Siem Reap, a pan-Asian restaurant that is proud of its "world famous Cambodian food" (but serves mostly Chinese dishes).
Amok is a fragrant passport to the tropics. It's served in a young coconut shell so that you can scrape the tender flesh into the mixture of fish and light fresh seasonings that include galangal, lemon grass, garlic and turmeric. The leafy green mixed with the fish is Chinese broccoli.
Unlike Thai food, amok is neither spicy nor sweet, at least not at Siem Reap. But a trayful of condiments includes red chile sauce and sliced green chiles to pump it up to taste, and fish sauce for saltiness.
Deep in the coconut shell, under the fish, is light, clear, coconut-inflected broth. Spoon all of this over rice, and you have one heavenly dish.
Afterward, head to the dessert table (above) for Cambodian sweets. They include a purple taro dessert and eggy sweets similar to what Thais make. For a perfect combination, choose three--a barely sweet sticky rice cake sprinkled with sesame seeds, a deep gold pumpkin mixture and a coconut sweet with a browned crust.
Eat them together for a blend of textures and flavors that is as heavenly as amok.