Lunch at the Samosa House

Whenever I’m in West Los Angeles, I try to get to the Samosa House for lunch.  The food set out each day is irresistible. It’s always different, always interesting. And all of it is vegetarian.

In a corner at the back of this large and well-stocked Indian market (when I first went there, it was called the Bharat Bazaar) is a hot foods counter and a case of sweets and snacks.  People come in for food to go or to eat at tables scattered through the market and outside.

A combination plate is just $6.99 and includes a choice of any three main dishes, rice, raita and freshly made chapatis. The other day, I couldn’t stop at three dishes because there were so many tempting things to try, like a vegetable combination (peas, carrots, tomatoes and potatoes) mixed with paneer (Indian cheese), cashews and here and there a raisin for a surprising burst of sweetness.

What looked like a meaty Chinese stir-fry with bell peppers, ginger and onion simulated meat with soy nuggets. Chinese food is immensely popular in India, so it wasn't unusual to find it at the Samosa House.

A crunchy slice of lotus root embedded with seasonings was delicious, and I fcouldn't pass up spicy lobhia (black eyed peas), okra cooked with onions, potato, tomatoes and ginger and  soft, yellow cake-like dhokla, all of this accompanied by cilantro and tamarind chutneys and chapatis.

Drinks, which are extra, include sweet and salty lassis, mango lassi and chai. When you are finished, it’s time to shop, for anything from Indian tea, basmati rice, garam masala and fresh curry leaves to recipe books, incense  and beguiling figures of Indian gods to watch over you as you cook.

The Samosa House is located at 11510 W. Washington Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90066. Tel: (310) 398-6766. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.